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A LONG LAYOVER IN COPENHAGEN, DENMARK
Inexpensive flights oftentimes mean long layovers. I’ve spent what feels like a lifetime in airports around the world. On my most recent layover from New York to Paris, I had a seven-hour layover in Copenhagen, Denmark. Traveling with someone always makes the time pass a little faster, but seven hours is still a very long time to sit in an airport. Since the Copenhagen airport is only 15 minutes from the city center on the metro, Vincent and I decided to spend the day in the city! We made it through immigrations and were on the metro in a matter of 20 minutes after getting off the plane.
While seven hours is a long time to spend in an airport, it’s not a lot of time to explore a city you’ve never been to! We took the metro to Kongens Nytorv, a stop in between the largest pedestrian street in the city and Nyhavn – the canal. We headed straight for the canal and started our afternoon at a little café to have a coffee and wake up – it was 7 a.m. for us after all! It couldn’t have been a more perfect way to start the day, the sun was out and the colorful buildings along the canal reflected in the sunlight! Since we didn’t have time to see the entire city by foot, we jumped on a tour boat guiding us through the city by water.
The canal tour brought us to sites such as the Little Mermaid in Churchill Park (the story was written by the Danish author Hans Christian Andersen), the Amalienborg Palace, the Opera House, and the Black Diamond library. The bridges stretching over different parts of the canal are low and narrow – the canal boats were designed to make all of the tight turns and squeeze through the low underpasses!
After spending about an hour and a half on the canal we made it back to land and wandered along Strøget – the world’s longest pedestrian street! We stopped for lunch and tasted smørrebrød, an open-faced sandwich typically served on dark brown bread with cold cuts or fish.
Legos were created in Denmark, and if you’re looking to buy some you don’t have to go too far – Lego stores everywhere. Before heading back to the airport we visited Kongens Nytorv, “The King’s New Square,” did a little people watching, and made sure to stay clear of the bike lane!
After spending a few hours in Copenhagen, I left with a wonderful first impression of both the city and Danish people in general! I’m hoping for another long layover someday, or to return to the city for a few days to finish exploring.
ANOTHER FEW MONTHS IN PARIS… WHAT WOULD YOU LIKE TO SEE?
I’ll be back in France for a while. I’ve been here for about a week and a half and have been looking for English teaching gigs to make a little cash in between writing a few different articles for various publications.
While I’m still taking time to do touristy things, this time around I’ve been seeing Paris through Parisians (or French people who have lived here for a few years). Their Paris does not include weekly trips to the Eiffel Tower, the lovelock bridge, or to the Louvre. It includes drinking an espresso or glass of wine with friends, taking walks around the city, enjoying a nice meal every once in a while and doing normal everyday things like going grocery shopping, or to the market, going to work, and enjoying a movie at home every once in a while.
I’m enjoying all of these things, but I’m also excited to give you a peak at what you’d like to see in Paris! If you are curious about something here or want advice on what to do in the City of Light, send me an e-mail (karifiverson@gmail.com)! I’ll visit museums, restaurants, gardens and more and let you know what I think!
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Un petit café dans une brasserie parisienne. {A small coffee in a Parisian brasserie.}
NAVIGATING MY AWKWARD POST-GRAD LIFE
Allow me to bring you up to speed (on my life).
I graduated from college one year ago. I didn’t follow the “normal” postgraduate route and find a nine to five job. Instead, I spent last summer waiting tables on the docks of Lake Minnetonka, buying impromptu plane tickets to Albuquerque, New Mexico, Chicago, Illinois, and Buenos Aires, Argentina. Then, I decided to learn French, so I bought a one-way ticket to France. I was told on a daily basis how “crazy” I was and that I should just settle down and find a job.
It would have been easier for me to listen to this so-called “advice,” but I’m glad I stuck to my gut and took off for France with nothing but my camera, computer, and very heavy suitcase.
I lightened my load along the way and got rid of what I could, because, quite frankly, pulling a suitcase that weighs almost as much as you do up 200 or more stairs in the metro is way more work than a few pairs of pants and sweaters are worth.
During the seven months I spent in France not only did I see a new part of the world, I learned a third language, met more interesting people than I can count on two hands, and discovered that being “crazy” is not only fun, but also rewarding.
I flew back to Minnesota mid June to visit my family and make enough cash to move again. I’m heading to New York on September 7 and possibly back to Paris for one month. I’m not sure where I’ll be living come October, but I have six weeks to figure that out. That’s plenty of time, right?
The post-graduate cookie cutter plan isn’t for everyone.
Life is about trying on hundreds of different hats until you find a perfect fit. I’ve worn many hats over the last year, from a student, to a waitress, a writer, a news reporter, a storyteller, a gardener, a nanny, and more.
I’m still navigating my awkward post-college life, debating if grad school is the right decision for me, applying for jobs almost every day, and living in my childhood bedroom. Most people think that’s every college grad’s worst nightmare. Not mine. Living with my parents and working anywhere from one to three jobs, depending on the day, has allowed me to begin making my dreams my reality. I get to explore the world.
MOON LIGHT, MOON BRIGHT
I spent the month of April and May at a workaway in Roquebrune Cap Martin, France, located in between Monaco and the Italian border on the Côte d’Azur. In between gardening, reassembling little cabins, painting and the like on the immense property I’ve once again gotten behind here on the blog. I’ve spent the day going through photos and looking back at all of the stories I’ve written in my notebook about the 15-20 other workawayers I lived with over the past few months, the trips I took along the coast and what an adventure this has been!
CIAO, ITALIA!
My parents have said for years that Cinque Terre, Italy is one of their favorite places in the world. Since we were only a few hours away by train, they decided to give me a glimpse of the area!
Cinque Terre is a UNESCO World Heritage Site that consists of five villages and the surrounding hillsides where people have built houses and terraces stacked on top of one another, on top of cliffs. There are beautiful hiking trails and breathtaking views. Each of the five towns has a different feel. We stayed in Manarola, which is believed to be the oldest of the five towns. Its brightly colored buildings give it life, but it remains a sleepy fisherman’s village.
The cemetery in Manarola was different from any cemetery I’ve seen – photos were placed on each of the gravestones.
Riomaggiore was just a walk or train ride away.
When you’re in Italy and life gives you lemons, make limoncello.
As we hiked in between villages we passed through many olive groves. A few words of wisdom from my mother: Don’t taste a raw olive, it’s not worth it.
In many ways the villages look similar, but each of them has a different feel. In 2011 Vernazza was hit by terrible rain storms which resulted in mudslides that were 12 feet deep in the main part of town. They continue to do repair work today, but most damage has been repaired.
Around every corner there was another colorful door.
After a long day of hiking, there is nothing better than a fresh cannoli!
We took a quick day trip to Pisa from Cinque Terre. When in Pisa there are two things you should do… Go up the Leaning Tower of Pisa, and eat pizza!
I couldn’t resist taking the classic tourist photo… but the better photo was of my Dad laying on the ground to take the photo.
I’ve seen photos of the tower before, but it was impressive to climb it and feel how much it leans.
A view from the top of the tower.
We headed back to Cinque Terre to enjoy a very fresh dinner!
We crossed back into France and my parents headed back to Minnesota and I moved onto my next workaway in Roquebrune Cap Martin, located in between the Italian boarder and Monaco.
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BACK TO THE RIVIERA
As we were getting ready to leave Paris I found myself packing up my suitcase one more time. Leaving Paris is never easy, but one thing is certain, you always leave her with good memories.
My family and I took the train south to Nice, where my French adventure began. We settled into Nice with an aperitif on the beach and a stroll through the narrow, but colorful, streets of the old town. Seeing as Jena was leaving the next morning, I insisted she try a French specialty – escargot.
As you can see, it wasn’t her favorite…but it was fun to watch her try them! I enjoy them quite a lot, and with the amount of butter and garlic on them you can’t go wrong.
We spent a morning exploring Monaco – from le Rocher to Monte-Carlo, Monaco always makes an impression.
We stopped in Villefranche and enjoyed lunch by the water. Afterwards, I showed them where I lived and went to school for a month, but more importantly, I made them walk up the hill (more like mountain) that I walked up with my luggage that originally weighed almost as much as I do. Needless to say, they were breathing heavy without the luggage and could finally understand what I meant when I wrote them the initial e-mail that said, “I think I might have died today.”
Nice is an active city – from the beach to the hiking trails, there is always somewhere to go. We hiked up to Parc du Chateau (Castle Hill) where there are incredible panoramic views of Nice, especially the old town and the port. Later I brought them to the Marché aux Fleurs (Flower/Farmer’s Market) – one of my favorite places to go in Nice. You can smell the flowers from blocks away and the vendors are always friendly. You also can’t go wrong with your seafood when it’s caught less than an hour before you buy it.
The South of France is filled with medieval villages. While they’ve become touristy, their narrow streets, magnificent views, and castles bring you back in time. Eze is a medieval village near Nice; we spent a relaxing morning winding our way through the village and visiting the exotic garden at the top. There are a handful of sculptures designed by Jean-Philippe Richard placed throughout the garden, each of them was given a first name and is accompanied by a quote giving them a personality of their own.
Marina: “De l’une à l’autre, Semblable et différente, Unique certainement.” II “From one to the other, Similar yet different, Most certainly unique.”
Margot: “Suivez-moi, jeune homme Et vous connaîtrez tous mes secrets… ou presque.” II “Follow me young man And you shall know all my secrets… almost.”
Mélisande: “Qui m’a rêvée? Qui m’a créée? À
Although we didn’t spend a long time in Nice, it was a fun to show my family a glimpse of my life on the French Riviera!
OH, PAREEEE (A.K.A. PARIS)
One month in Paris. One month is never quite enough; there will always be something you leave without accomplishing or seeing, but maybe that’s a good thing. Maybe that’s what gives the city its energy and keeps people returning. You have to leave something to dream about, after-all. While my French has come along since my days of saying, “Bonjour, je m’appelle Kari,” and “Merci,” I still have a long way to go. I’ve learned everything by ear, which means my writing skills are that of a kindergarten student. During my month in Paris I decided to enroll in a language course during the mornings to learn a thing or two about writing. It helped, but it also confirmed that the best way to improve my French is by reading, speaking with people, and making loads, and loads, and loads of mistakes. So, to make these mistakes I wandered the streets, went on walking tours, spent days in cafes bantering with servers and bartenders and the evenings with friends, and friends of friends. Even with a few friends around, Paris is a difficult city to crack in a month. When you’re trying to learn a new language, find a job, create social and professional networks all in a matter of a few weeks, sometimes things feel downright impossible. However, even when it feels like everything is going in the wrong direction, you might as well make the most of where you are and enjoy. In Paris that means picnics in the park, a glass of wine and some nibbles at up and coming restaurants in the 11th arrondissement, people watching, peaking into art galleries, and taking a stroll on the original “highline” – a park built on top of old railroad tracks that gives you a view of Paris from the sky.
I played tour guide my last week in Paris when my parents (Jon & Sue) and sister (Jena) came to visit (we missed you, Eric)! They claim that I have an abnormal amount of energy and like to go, go, go. That might be the case, but I wanted them to see as much as possible… and a little caffeine fixes everything, right? …Maybe not when jetlag is involved, but they survived!
On the first day I took my parents to see one of my favorite markets, Marché d’Aligre, where you can find everything from freshly cut meat to fruits, veggies, olive oil, cheese, and more! We had lunch at Les Provinces Boucherie, a quaint little butcher shop that doubles as a restaurant. You have a seat, choose your cut of meat, and enjoy a glass or two of wine. We sat down at a long table where it turns out a small group was doing a wine tasting. They invited us to join in, and I tasted what was quickly added to my top 10 favorite wines; the only problem is that only 200 bottles of it are produced and you have to be a friend of the owner of the vineyard to receive one… I’m working on it.
Jena joined us a few days later! We took a trip to the top of the Eiffel Tower and watched Paris light up as the sun set.
We made it to the bottom just in time for the light show to begin!
Sacre Couer (above) II Mur des Je T’aimes (below)
We made our way to most of the tourist attractions including a visit to the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, the Musée d’Orsay (my all time favorite), Notre Dame, and Sainte-Chapelle. We walked through Montemartre, visited Sacre Coeur, overlooked Paris, and visited the Mur des Je T’aime. We strolled along the Champs Elysées and had tea at Laudurée. We smelled the flowers in the Tuileries and Luxembourg Gardens and made our way to an evening cabaret at Moulin Rouge. People say it’s touristy, but there are some incredible routines I’d love to go back to see again!
Musée d’Orsay
At the Louvre. Mona Lisa might be the most famous of them all, but one of my favorite pieces is the statue. The sculptor was way ahead of his times when he molded this man taking a “selfie.” 🙂
Inverted Pyramid
The Luxor Obelisk and the Dôme des Invalides, where Napoleon is buried, are two of a handful of monuments with real leafed-gold. The Obelisk was a gift from Egypt and stands where the guillotine once stood.
The magnificent stained glass windows in Sainte-Chapelle.
Tea and macaroons at Laudurée.
Moulin Rouge
We spent a rainy day visiting the Château de Versailles and Marie Antoinette’s estate.
There’s a brass compass star that lies in front of Notre Dame. It is considered the center point of Paris and rumor has it that if you spin on the star, you will come back to Paris; if you jump on the star, you’ll find love in Paris. Let the voting commence… did I jump or spin?
RETOUR À PARIS
Audrey Hepburn once said, “Paris is always a good idea.” She had it right. After spending the holidays in Paris I knew I needed to come back.
When I arrived here it was raining everyday. I’ve procrastinated buying an umbrella for the past three months because I lose just about every umbrella I buy, even if it’s raining, but I finally cracked. I was sick of having wet dog hair. The day I bought an umbrella was the last time it rained… go figure. Call me superstitious, but now I’m convinced the day I leave it at home is the day it will rain. I take it with me everywhere I go, hoping the sunny weather will last.
Without further ado, here’s a peak at the last few weeks in Paris!
Flower Markets on Sunday Mornings
One of the hidden gems in Paris – Promenade Plantée – an elevated park.
Le Mur des “Je t’aime” – The “I Love You” Wall – “I love you” is written 311 times in 250 languages!
Celebrating Miquela’s Birthday!
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EXPLORING BELGIUM
Belgium is about the same size as Maryland, but it has three official languages: Flemmish/Dutch, French, and German.
When I was in the Flanders (Flemish speaking region), the ticketing agent at the train station gave me a slight glare when I spoke to her in French – oops. I thought French would be more polite than English, but that’s not the case. If you’re in a Flemish speaking region, you speak Flemish and if you’re in a French-speaking region, you speak French… even if all of the languages are official in all of the regions. The only place both Dutch and French fly is in Brussels – where everything is bilingual, including the road signs.
My first stop in Belgium was Bruges to visit Brigit, one of my college roommates. Bruges was beautiful and seeing a familiar face was nice, too! The city center is a UNESCO world heritage site; Gothic architecture from the medieval times made me feel like I was walking through a different time.
Brigit was off to Geneva, and I was going to explore Brussels. In such a small country, I was lucky enough to have two hosts! Pieter, who stayed with my family in Minnesota for a few days while touring with Up With People, greeted me at the train station in Brussels. Guidebooks can give you a good idea of how to get around a city, but nothing compares to exploring with a local.
The Smurfs are from Belgium!
Manneken Pis (“Little man pee”) was much smaller than I expected. Here he was also dressed up for a holiday of some sort!
Parc de Bruxelles (left) is surrounded by a number of important places in Brussels, including the Belgian Parliament, Palace of Justice, and the Royal Palace.
Approaching the European Parliament
We went up to Antwerp for a day and were greeted by the pouring rain. We wandered when it picked up a bit and ducked in and out of cafes to avoid the worst of it.
Arriving at the Antwerp train station – one of the most beautiful in Europe!
The rain got to be a bit much at this point, so we stopped for waffles…
Waffles, beer, and beer cheese.
Dries Van Noten: A Belgian fashion designer. We did a little admiring.